We like it hidden and unique (and not overrun by mobs of tourists). We came to
Bologna for one primary reason - it is supposed to be the culinary capital of
Italy (but don't tell anyone).
We arrived at Bologna's central train station on time, at 1:15 p.m., from Milano Centrale (on the way from Varenna). Bologna's central train station is quite large - one of the largest I have ever seen.
We arrived at Bologna's central train station on time, at 1:15 p.m., from Milano Centrale (on the way from Varenna). Bologna's central train station is quite large - one of the largest I have ever seen.
Once we found our way out, we took a taxi to our
Airbnb apartment at Via Piella in
downtown Bologna. We were met by our host, Sandra, who showed us the
apartment, the locations, how to operate all appliances, and nearby
restaurants and sights. Sandra was accommodating, and we were happy with our
choice of Airbnb apartment in Bologna.
The apartment is right on Bologna's canals and not far from the principal attractions (i.e., Piazza Maggiore, the Fountain of Neptune, etc.). Sandra suggested that we make reservations for lunch at Trattoria Serghei nearby (most restaurants are pretty small, and reservations are highly recommended). She called to make reservations, and we promptly went to get lunch there.
Trattoria Serghei is a small, quaint restaurant, nicely decorated on the inside. We were the only tourists there and enjoyed eating typical lunch entrees with other Italians. We all ordered the famous "Tagliatelle Al Ragu," as recommended by our waiter.
We enjoyed the food quality, the friendly atmosphere, and the fast service. The prices were very reasonable, and the food was superb. No wonder people write that Bologna has the best food in Italy!
The desserts were also exceptionally delicious. We liked the cheesecake, or "Torta alla ricotta" in Italian.
We also liked the mascarpone torte with chocolate. The desserts were spectacular!
The apartment is right on Bologna's canals and not far from the principal attractions (i.e., Piazza Maggiore, the Fountain of Neptune, etc.). Sandra suggested that we make reservations for lunch at Trattoria Serghei nearby (most restaurants are pretty small, and reservations are highly recommended). She called to make reservations, and we promptly went to get lunch there.
Trattoria Serghei is a small, quaint restaurant, nicely decorated on the inside. We were the only tourists there and enjoyed eating typical lunch entrees with other Italians. We all ordered the famous "Tagliatelle Al Ragu," as recommended by our waiter.
We enjoyed the food quality, the friendly atmosphere, and the fast service. The prices were very reasonable, and the food was superb. No wonder people write that Bologna has the best food in Italy!
The desserts were also exceptionally delicious. We liked the cheesecake, or "Torta alla ricotta" in Italian.
We also liked the mascarpone torte with chocolate. The desserts were spectacular!
After lunch, we returned to our apartment for a moment and then decided to
explore Bologna further, planning to visit the main highlight.
Rick Steves' book did not mention
Bologna; he suggested skipping Bologna altogether and going to Ravenna
instead. We decided not to follow his advice. Rick's advice is usually
sensible, but he is frequently wrong regarding restaurant choices (and city
choices).
We were pleasantly surprised by the old buildings in Bologna, with thousands of red-brick porticoes (something we have never seen anywhere else). Eventually, strolling through many courtyards, we made it to the main square - Piazza Maggiore.
We were pleasantly surprised by the old buildings in Bologna, with thousands of red-brick porticoes (something we have never seen anywhere else). Eventually, strolling through many courtyards, we made it to the main square - Piazza Maggiore.
There, we saw the Basilica of San Petronio, with its unfinished façade. It is
beautiful on the inside - all in fine red brick.
Piazza Maggiore was packed with people (like most Italian piazzas).
Once outside the cathedral, we explored the statue of Neptune, which is quite
lovely. After exploring the nearby courtyard, we further walked around the old
town.
We spotted a quality gelateria and stopped by to sample some gelato. We had never tried some flavors, like buffalo milk (I really liked it). We really enjoyed the nocciola (hazelnut) and pistachio gelato.
We spotted a quality gelateria and stopped by to sample some gelato. We had never tried some flavors, like buffalo milk (I really liked it). We really enjoyed the nocciola (hazelnut) and pistachio gelato.
They were some of the best gelatos we have ever eaten anywhere in the world.
Their chocolate gelato was also delicious. There was one flavor -
trifle/bubble gum - that Alex really liked, but I did not care for.
After walking a bit further, we ran into Inna's other favorite, Gelateria -
Grom. However, their prices were higher,
and they did not offer any new exotic flavors, so we did not stop by (though
we were mightily tempted).
We also visited (by accident) the Archiginnasio, a former seat of the University of Bologna and the Teatro Anatomico, where students learned anatomy by observing dissections (done by lecturers).
We also visited (by accident) the Archiginnasio, a former seat of the University of Bologna and the Teatro Anatomico, where students learned anatomy by observing dissections (done by lecturers).
The Teatro is a well-maintained all-wooden room with benches and an operating
table in the center. There are statues of the world's best doctors all
around.
Tired from walking, we began heading home but stopped at the Church of Santa Maria della Vita.
Niccolò dell'Arca’s sculpture group "Compianto sul Cristo morto" was on display. The lifelike expressions of grief were quite impressive. Remarkably, a sculptor did this in the 15th century.
We sampled a few Bolognese delicacies while exploring Bologna's downtown.
Alex liked the "Cannoli con Nutella." (Actually, Alex likes Nutella on anything.)
We ran into a few towers downtown. Bologna used to have 160+ towers, but now only a few are still standing. Some of the towers are no longer straight and are leaning.
We thought about climbing the towers, but we were too tired.
We strolled on the Via Dell'Independenza - one of the main shopping streets. There were many upscale shops and boutiques. It's incredible how many porticos there are in Bologna!
For dinner, Inna made special reservations at the well-regarded Osteria La Traviata. We made it there around 8:15 p.m. It is a fine Italian family restaurant, and we enjoyed our Italian dinner there.
Tired from walking, we began heading home but stopped at the Church of Santa Maria della Vita.
Niccolò dell'Arca’s sculpture group "Compianto sul Cristo morto" was on display. The lifelike expressions of grief were quite impressive. Remarkably, a sculptor did this in the 15th century.
We sampled a few Bolognese delicacies while exploring Bologna's downtown.
Alex liked the "Cannoli con Nutella." (Actually, Alex likes Nutella on anything.)
We ran into a few towers downtown. Bologna used to have 160+ towers, but now only a few are still standing. Some of the towers are no longer straight and are leaning.
We thought about climbing the towers, but we were too tired.
We strolled on the Via Dell'Independenza - one of the main shopping streets. There were many upscale shops and boutiques. It's incredible how many porticos there are in Bologna!
For dinner, Inna made special reservations at the well-regarded Osteria La Traviata. We made it there around 8:15 p.m. It is a fine Italian family restaurant, and we enjoyed our Italian dinner there.
Inna enjoyed the appetizer's cold cuts (freshly sliced meats of different
kinds). After all, that's where the word for Bologna comes from. Cold cuts
were delicious!
My Spaghetti Bolognese was delicious (as usual). Overall, Bologna had some of
Italy's best food (and very reasonably priced).
For dessert, we had the recommended house dessert. It was delicious!
We came back home very late. The sun had set long ago, and it was a bit dark
(even with street lamps).
Wednesday, April 8, 2015
In the morning, after waking up, we dressed and decided to get a standard Bolognese breakfast. We walked around and found a local cafe - Naama Cafe - with delicious pastries.
It was a tiny cafe with only a few tables. We saw that only locals eat here - we were the only tourists. It's our kind of coffee shop - cozy and cute!
We ordered many different coffees and a hot chocolate for Alex. They were excellent!
Wednesday, April 8, 2015
In the morning, after waking up, we dressed and decided to get a standard Bolognese breakfast. We walked around and found a local cafe - Naama Cafe - with delicious pastries.
It was a tiny cafe with only a few tables. We saw that only locals eat here - we were the only tourists. It's our kind of coffee shop - cozy and cute!
We ordered many different coffees and a hot chocolate for Alex. They were excellent!
I finally found my favorite croissant with pistachio filling again (the last
time I ate one was in Metz, France, many years ago). The croissant was
delicious, and Inna's lemon cake was outstanding as well. I wish I could buy
these croissants in the U.S.
Our cappuccinos were also covered with pistachio and were delicious! How I
will miss Bolognese cooking!
I still can't understand why many Italians choose to stand when drinking
coffee or eating a pastry (and the prices in Italy are different for sitting
versus standing). It looks odd.
After returning to our apartment, we packed and asked Sandra to call us a taxi. We arrived at the Bologna train station in 10 minutes. We found the train to Venice, scheduled for 10:55 a.m., but could not find a working ticket machine.
After returning to our apartment, we packed and asked Sandra to call us a taxi. We arrived at the Bologna train station in 10 minutes. We found the train to Venice, scheduled for 10:55 a.m., but could not find a working ticket machine.
As time ran out, we decided to purchase tickets on the train. It was an
expensive mistake: our onboard tickets cost three times as much. Live and
learn! I did not realize I could buy Trenitalia tickets using my iPhone
(though the ProntoTreno app is unavailable in the U.S. Apple Store). Next
time, if I can't find a working ticket machine, I will buy tickets online (to
avoid paying penalties on the train).
The train to Venice was high-speed, and we arrived in Venice by 1:10 p.m.
The train to Venice was high-speed, and we arrived in Venice by 1:10 p.m.
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