Our flight from Bergen, Norway, to Copenhagen, Denmark, was scheduled for 8:10
p.m. from Bergen airport. It's a relatively short flight, and we planned to
land in Copenhagen at 9:30 p.m. However, our plane was delayed 15 minutes (not
a big deal). We also called our
Phoenix Copenhagen hotel to
confirm they had our room reserved for our late arrival. To my great surprise,
they told me that my booking was canceled because
Booking.com tried to charge my credit card,
which was declined. I asked them to look into the problem. They said that they
were all booked but would do their best.
After our snack, we took a tour of Hans Christian Andersen's fairy-tale land while sitting in a moving treasure chest.
There were many famous fairy tales built up with animated dolls. Inna and I liked it, but Alex found it too dull.
However, he did enjoy the ride on the Demon rollercoaster with Inna. The Demon is located inside Tivoli's small Chinatown.
Thankfully, the lines were not that long for Alex and Inna's ride.
Inna and Alex had a lot of fun on their ride, but did not ask to do it again!
Alex wanted to try the Temple Power ride, which involved pulling oneself up with a rope. However, it was not too exciting for him.
There was a cute place for kids that Inna wanted to explore. In addition to a playground for young ones, there were some obstacles for pre-teens. There were tons of kids here!
Alex tried to stay on the rolling log along with his Danish friends, but was not too successful:
We thought about doing a bike tour with
Mike
(www.bikecopenhagenwithmike.dk) - something we did in Amsterdam last year -
but after talking to Mike directly, we realized that Mike did not have
appropriate bikes for Alex. In retrospect, it was a wise decision, as it
started to rain heavily at 10:00 a.m., the start of the bike tour (Rick Steves
reported that this tour begins at 10:30 a.m. - incorrectly again!). We decided
to rent bikes and explore on our own, which was wise. Mike charges 299 DKK per
person with no discounts for kids. Paying 900 DKK to bike for three hours is
relatively high.
We saw a roughly 5,000-year-old hippopotamus sculpture, one of the museum's oldest objects.
We enjoyed watching the beautiful scenery float by while the boat traversed the canals. We could touch the ceiling and had to duck our heads under a few bridges.
Inna finally had some time to relax after nonstop walking all day.
Today, after breakfast at our nearby bakery (Reinh van Hauen), we boarded bus
1A and rode 6 stops to Tivoli Gardens, where we wanted to try to catch Richard
Karpen's 90-minute tour.
This time, we succeeded and followed Richard's tour throughout Copenhagen. We liked Richard's tours - he was articulate and explained things well. The 90-minute tour of Copenhagen costs 100 DKK or USD 20 per person.
Richard told us many exciting facts about the Danes and their lives in Denmark. He has been here for over 20 years, first as a professional musician and now as a tour guide. He dressed as Hans Christian Andersen in a colorful purple suit and top hat.
According to Richard, Danes value caring for the weak, the sick, and the helpless. There is a core value of helping people in need, and this is prevalent throughout Danish society. Richard described Denmark’s publicly funded healthcare, parental leave and support for people seeking work. Richard described Denmark as largely secular despite its Lutheran heritage. However, most Danes have their children baptized and confirmed anyway.
We saw very little panhandling and begging in Denmark (much more in Estonia and Sweden).
Denmark has one of the more honest political systems and is consistently rated among the most honest governments. A politician who cheats on taxes becomes unelectable. Parliamentary elections must be held at least every four years, and can be called earlier. Turnout at the most recent election before our visit, in 2011, was about 87.7%.
Richard emphasized Denmark’s high taxes. Still, most Danes agree to high taxes because of the social support these taxes provide, including health care, job retraining, care for the elderly, homeless, and mentally ill, and free college education. We saw very few homeless people during our stay in Copenhagen. Homeless people are provided shelter and a living stipend—Danes do not feel that in a rich country, anyone should be on the street.
Richard also described Denmark’s military-service lottery and the role of volunteers at the time. Women can volunteer within the armed forces for any position. Denmark aligns itself closely with the United States, and its military has served in Afghanistan, Iraq, and the U.S.
Richard also emphasized women’s participation in public life and support for families. Women won 39.1% of parliamentary seats in the 2011 election. Around the time of our visit, the leave system combined maternity, paternity and shared parental leave; it did not guarantee every mother a year at 90% of salary.
Cars are costly in Denmark. At the time, passenger cars faced a value-based registration tax with 105% and 180% brackets, rather than a flat 180% sales tax. Denmark has high gas prices (USD 9/gallon) and higher car parking fees. Residents are encouraged to ride bicycles (with special bike lanes in the city designated for their use) and public transportation (which is cheap and prevalent - buses run 24 hours per day). Most trains have accommodations for bikes and strollers, so it's easy to take a bike on the train and explore other parts of Denmark.
Denmark, which consists of the mainland and 400 other islands, is a seafaring nation. The largest shipping company, Maersk Line, is based in Denmark and employs 25,000 people.
At the time of our visit, a school reform was due to introduce English from first grade and German or French from fifth grade. English was easy to use in Copenhagen, and many signs throughout the city were in English. Copenhagen is home to a major Danish university with tens of thousands of students.
Denmark consistently ranks as one of the happiest countries. Richard pointed out that it is not so much that Danes are so glad, but they have lowered expectations and are always surprised when Denmark comes out ahead. Danes do not expect Denmark to be number one in anything. Their lowered expectations mean that they are rarely disappointed when things go poorly. They also believe that happiness does not come from more material wealth but from more friends and more interactions with others. Most Danes are members of their apartment or homeowners' association, church, or neighborhood. They grow to trust and depend on each other, so honesty is taken for granted and expected.
The biggest problems of concern to Danes right now are immigration (many incoming immigrants from Islamic countries do not integrate well into Danish society), taxes, alcohol abuse, and smoking. Richard also discussed unemployment support, job-seeking requirements and retraining.
After the tour ended, we stopped for lunch at an authentic Danish restaurant recommended by Richard: Cafe Halvvejen. The cafe is primarily underground, has limited space, and serves lunch. However, there was space on the street, and we ordered a few authentic Danish dishes, which were really exceptional.
Inna had a traditional smorgasbord on rye bread.
I had the mini platter, which included herring, chicken salad, homemade meatballs, and a hard-boiled egg. It was truly exceptional.
Alex had the traditional Danish meatballs, which looked and tasted delicious.
These dishes were all very well prepared and reasonably priced (compared to other tourist-oriented restaurants). We hope to eat there again one day.
After lunch, we stopped by the bakery Richard recommended - Lagkagehuset - where we picked a few delicious pastries. I had the Franske Horn. Alex tried the Traestamme, which both Inna and I liked, but Alex did not like it because it contained rum. Inna tried the Nødde-mazarin, which she also enjoyed. This was one of the best bakeries we have been to in Copenhagen, and we planned to stop there again. Since Alex did not like the taste of the rum in the Traestamme, we let him pick out another selection - Flodebolle caramel.
I liked the modern Copenhagen Airport, which looked much better engineered than any U.S. airport. After we
landed in Copenhagen, we decided to purchase metro tickets to reach our
hotel quickly.
Initially, I tried purchasing metro tickets using vending machines, but they
did not work with my Capital One Visa (it did not have a chip and PIN like
most European credit cards). The vending machines would also not work with
my bank's ATM card or cash (it only accepts coins). Luckily, we found a
station manned by people who could sell us metro tickets for cash.
Once we purchased tickets, we rode the metro from Lufthavn to Kongens Nytorv
(the metro station nearest our
Phoenix Copenhagen Hotel). The metro ride from the airport was short, about 15 minutes,
and we were soon in downtown Copenhagen.
Copenhagen's downtown immediately reminded me of Amsterdam, with large bike
lanes everywhere and relatively flat surroundings. With the help of Google
Maps, I found my way and went to our
Phoenix Copenhagen hotel.
Happily, our reservations were fine, and we were given a room on the 3rd
floor.
Upon reaching the hotel, I noticed many fabulous design stores nearby and
made a mental note to visit them. From the sound of revelers driving around,
I could tell Copenhagen was a "party city." The revelers continued partying
every day of our stay!
Saturday, June 28, 2014
After waking up around 8:30 a.m., we got dressed and ate breakfast. I found
an excellent bakery nearby on
Yelp called
Reinh van Hauen, and I
wanted to try pastries there. Inna ordered a traditional Danish pastry,
Alex tried the focaccia bread pizza with pepperoni, and I had a pastry
with coffee. The pastries were delicious but not exceptional.
After breakfast, we took the long way to
Tivoli Gardens. Our initial plan was
to follow a one-hour tour of Copenhagen by
Richard Karpen. Rick Steves highly recommended Richard for his
Hans Christian Andersen
tours of Copenhagen. Although we arrived at 10:30 a.m. - the designated tour
time - we missed Richard (I did not know what he looked like - I saw someone
dressed colorfully in a top hat, but did not realize it was him). We tried
to catch up to him, but could not find him.
We walked to the city hall, observing all the beautiful ongoing weddings.
Since it was just after 11:00 a.m., we decided to go to the
Tivoli Gardens since the weather
was fine, not raining, and we were in the area. From observing the brides
and grooms at the City Hall, Danish weddings seem a lot more modest than
American weddings.
We purchased a three-day Copenhagen card, which allowed us to access
most museums and public transport for 72 hours. It worked well with
Tivoli Gardens, one of the main
attractions we planned to visit. However, the multi-day Copenhagen card is
uneconomical unless used daily. One is better off buying a 24-hour
Copenhagen card for days when many expensive museums will be visited, and a
lot of travel is needed.
At first, we tried to ride a roller coaster, but we had to buy additional
tickets for the actual rides (the Copenhagen card only covered entrance
fees). We paid 200 DKK per adult for unlimited rides. I did not go on more
than four rides, so spending 25 DKK per individual ride ticket makes more
sense for some people (like me).
The first ride we tried was the Star Flyer. However, we were not allowed to take photos - though we had a great view of the surrounding Copenhagen (80 meters above the ground!)
The first ride we tried was the Star Flyer. However, we were not allowed to take photos - though we had a great view of the surrounding Copenhagen (80 meters above the ground!)
Alex, Inna, and I went on a few more rides and then decided to grab a few
snacks. I ordered a pancake with cream inside. It was delicious. Inna
ordered a Marzipan cake, and it was terrific as well.
After our snack, we took a tour of Hans Christian Andersen's fairy-tale land while sitting in a moving treasure chest.
There were many famous fairy tales built up with animated dolls. Inna and I liked it, but Alex found it too dull.
However, he did enjoy the ride on the Demon rollercoaster with Inna. The Demon is located inside Tivoli's small Chinatown.
Thankfully, the lines were not that long for Alex and Inna's ride.
Inna and Alex had a lot of fun on their ride, but did not ask to do it again!
Alex wanted to try the Temple Power ride, which involved pulling oneself up with a rope. However, it was not too exciting for him.
The
Tivoli Boys Guard
marched through the park and entertained us with their music. I was
surprised by how young some members were (some looked younger than Alex). It
was a regular marching band (like any U.S. High School would have). The band
marched through Tivoli Gardens a few
times, and we occasionally encountered it.
Alex wanted to try other rides, and he found this exhilarating airplane ride
called
Vertigo. The airplane rotates and spins in various directions.
Alex liked Vertigo so much that he did it more than a few times!
After all the rides, we got hungry and decided to have lunch at Cafe Georg nearby. Inna ordered a salmon sandwich, while I ordered an omelet with walnuts and goat cheese.
After all the rides, we got hungry and decided to have lunch at Cafe Georg nearby. Inna ordered a salmon sandwich, while I ordered an omelet with walnuts and goat cheese.
The walnut-and-goat-cheese combination was unusual but worked well in
the omelet. I really enjoyed it!
We ordered a fresh strawberry cake for dessert, which was delicious!
Nearby, where we sat, many young kids were floating on Dragon Boats. This was a ride for the younger kids, so Alex skipped it.
After our delicious lunch, we attended the 5:00 p.m. fish feeding at Tivoli's Aquarium, where a small octopus was fed. Tivoli's aquarium is relatively small, so for 25 DKK extra per person, one did not see much variety of fish. The admission price is not worth it for access to the small aquarium and fish feeding. If I had to do it again, I would skip it.
Nearby, where we sat, many young kids were floating on Dragon Boats. This was a ride for the younger kids, so Alex skipped it.
After our delicious lunch, we attended the 5:00 p.m. fish feeding at Tivoli's Aquarium, where a small octopus was fed. Tivoli's aquarium is relatively small, so for 25 DKK extra per person, one did not see much variety of fish. The admission price is not worth it for access to the small aquarium and fish feeding. If I had to do it again, I would skip it.
There was a cute place for kids that Inna wanted to explore. In addition to a playground for young ones, there were some obstacles for pre-teens. There were tons of kids here!
Alex tried to stay on the rolling log along with his Danish friends, but was not too successful:
After exploring the children's playground, we went inside a cute whale
house, where Inna wanted to try local pancakes.
They were served in a unique/peculiar way but were very enjoyable.
They were served in a unique/peculiar way but were very enjoyable.
We saw two shows at the Pantomime Theater (the sizable open theater
decorated with Chinese characters). Starting at 7:00 p.m., the first show
focused on Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tales. The second performance
started at 8:30 p.m. The theater has limited seating, so if you want to sit,
you must reserve your seat at least 30-45 minutes early. Both Inna and Alex
liked these pantomime ballets.
We had dinner at
Faergekroen Brewery, which overlooked the lake. I ordered the lamb, and Inna ordered the pasta
entree. The entree was huge—I expected it to be much smaller in Denmark. The
entrees were well prepared but expensive (200 DKK each). I did not try
the on-site beer, but saw many other patrons drinking it from tall glasses.
Next time, I could try it to see how it compares to beer in the Czech
Republic and Germany.
After dinner, we stopped by Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream Parlor to pick up a
scoop of ice cream for Alex (Phish Food flavor), then went to see the
10:00 p.m. concert by Michael Caroe. He played many standard American
rhythm-and-blues songs, including hits by Stevie Wonder, David Bowie, Ray
Charles, Depeche Mode, Dolly Parton, and others.
It was an eclectic mix of popular songs. I liked the concert and
was surprised to see many older people dancing. Michael Caroe had a big band
with an excellent horn section, including trombones, trumpets, and
saxophones. Overall, I liked the concert and wish he had played longer.
After the concert, Alex rode around the lot on the round stools (trying to entertain himself before the fireworks started).
After the concert, Alex rode around the lot on the round stools (trying to entertain himself before the fireworks started).
The Tivoli app on my iPhone worked well for finding show locations and times, as there were no schedule booklets at the entrance. Tivoli's Wi-Fi reception
was spotty and worked mainly near the main
entrance.
We missed the chance to see Tivoli's Illuminations because Michael Caroe's
concert ran from 10:00 p.m. to 11:15 p.m. (the Illuminations show
started at 10:45 p.m.). We would like to return to Tivoli to see this
show in the evening.
Tivoli Gardens looks beautiful at night, with all the lamps turned on. It
has a very different look at night than during the day. Many more adults
come to the gardens in the evening with more romantic intentions. We saw a
lot of couples kissing in the evening.
Tivoli's fireworks started at 11:45 p.m. They were some of the best
fireworks I've seen. Afterward, we took a taxi to our hotel, as we were too
tired to walk and unsure which bus to take home. The taxi ride cost about
120 DKK.
When we arrived at our Phoenix Hotel, the party in the nearby residence was
still going strong, and Inna had difficulty going to sleep. At least the
party was playing good, danceable music!
Sunday, June 29, 2014
After getting up around 8:30 a.m., we decided to get breakfast. In our
Phoenix Hotel, breakfast is 170 DKK per person - reasonably expensive - so
we decided to get breakfast on the way to the National Museum of Denmark. We
stopped at a restaurant near Nyhavn (New Harbor) as it started raining.
It looked cozy and inviting, and we saw many people already sitting
there (which we took as a good sign).
The restaurant Barock was offering a 20 DKK special on croissants and coffee. This was a mistake—the service was slow, and the waitress was half asleep. I repeatedly asked for the check to facilitate our exit. I would avoid this restaurant in the future (if one is in a hurry).
The restaurant Barock was offering a 20 DKK special on croissants and coffee. This was a mistake—the service was slow, and the waitress was half asleep. I repeatedly asked for the check to facilitate our exit. I would avoid this restaurant in the future (if one is in a hurry).
An intense downpour began while we were eating breakfast, so we were lucky
to be sitting under an umbrella. We walked to the
National Museum, using Google Maps to help us navigate. On the way there, we stopped
briefly at the Christiansborg Palace, home of Denmark's Parliament. We were
not too impressed with the palace and decided to pass it by (taking a few
photos on the way).
Next, we entered the
National Museum. Since Alex was still hungry, we bought him a cake and some hot chocolate
(he was in a bad mood, too, probably because he was still hungry). Inside,
there was an excellent children's museum, and Alex played as a dressed-up
Viking warrior, fighting with swords and trying on armor. He found the
actual armor to be quite heavy and uncomfortable to wear. There were many
Viking tools for kids to try for the first time, making it more fun.
The National Museum houses many ancient objects from Denmark's past. We
explored multiple galleries filled with objects from the Stone Age, Bronze
Age, Iron Age, and the Viking Age. Some exciting skeletons preserved in
the Stone Age exhibit were illuminating (I did not know that ancient people
performed brain surgery with rudimentary flint tools!). The museum turned out
to be much larger than I anticipated, and we realized quickly that we could
spend many days there. We decided to finish the Viking Age and go to our
next destination (before we got too tired).
We wish we had a tour guide for this museum, which is so enormous that it
requires someone to point out the relevant and exciting objects.
The National Museum is free, so no Copenhagen card is necessary. We
found out that the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek was also free on Sundays. If you
attend museums on Sundays, you can save a lot of money in Copenhagen (you
don't need to buy a Copenhagen card).
Inna wanted to go to the Danish Design Center, but when we finally found it,
we saw that it was closed, although Rick Steves and Tripadvisor reported it
open. The bottom line is that one cannot trust any guide to be accurate.
From Yelp reviews, I also discovered that the Danish Design Center no longer
shows exhibits.
Instead of the Danish Design Center, we walked to the
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. This beautiful museum founded by brewer Carl Jacobsen houses many exceptional Egyptian, Greek, Roman, and Danish statues,
as well as wonderful French paintings. The Glyptotek has free admission on
Sunday, so it was crowded.
We also enjoyed the cafe in Glyptotek - the sandwiches were delicious. I
ordered the Salmon sandwich (Laks Sandwich for 129 DKK), and Inna ordered
the French Ham sandwich (Skinke sandwich for 110 DKK). Alex said his Caesar
salad was the best he's had anywhere - that's pretty good for a museum cafe!
It is another of the odd Copenhagen cafes, where one first waits for a free
table, then proceeds to the counter to order food (giving the table number
to the waiter).
We liked the beautiful art collection in Glyptotek, and we could spend a few
days there, too. It's such a beautiful Danish building with a very cozy
atmosphere. Since the Glyptotek closed at 5:00 p.m. (not 4:00 p.m. as Triposo
suggested), we used the extra hour to explore the Danish painting collections
and the more modern masters. There is a beautifully reconstructed Greek temple
inside the Glyptotek with many authentic Greek and Roman statues.We saw a roughly 5,000-year-old hippopotamus sculpture, one of the museum's oldest objects.
There was a surprising collection of French Impressionist art. We could have
spent a lot more time here! Unfortunately, it closed at 5:00 p.m., and we
could have spent a few more hours exploring the sculptures and paintings.
On the way back to our Phoenix Copenhagen Hotel, we stopped briefly at the Guinness Book of World Records exhibit to compare ourselves to the World's Tallest Man. He looked twice as tall as Alex!
On the way back to our Phoenix Copenhagen Hotel, we stopped briefly at the Guinness Book of World Records exhibit to compare ourselves to the World's Tallest Man. He looked twice as tall as Alex!
We were exhausted when we came back to our Phoenix Hotel. We returned our
umbrellas (often used in today's rain) and rested a bit. We discovered that
river cruises depart two blocks from our hotel, and we decided to purchase
tickets for the 7:00 p.m. cruise (since the rain had stopped and we were not
sure the weather would be more favorable the next day). The river cruise was
not too expensive (75 DKK per person) and ran every twenty minutes.
The one-hour boat cruise from Nyhavn was enjoyable. We enjoyed the excellent
weather on our short trip. We saw a few memorable sights, including multiple
Little Mermaid statues, the Black Diamond (library extension), many historical
buildings and bridges, the modern Copenhagen Opera House, the Royal Yacht,
and many houseboats.
We enjoyed watching the beautiful scenery float by while the boat traversed the canals. We could touch the ceiling and had to duck our heads under a few bridges.
Inna finally had some time to relax after nonstop walking all day.
After returning from the trip, we pondered where to go for dinner. We
checked Yelp and asked our hotel staff for recommendations for a local
restaurant. The hotel staff suggested several places (though Rick Steves
dismissed the entire set of riverfront restaurants as overpriced tourist
traps).
Unfortunately, Rick Steves was right in this instance. The restaurant we
finally settled on—"Cap Horn"—had mediocre-quality dishes at high
prices. I ordered mackerel, which was prepared rather blandly; Inna ordered
roebuck (male roe deer) and thought it was well done (but
portions were small). Alex had pasta (the chef specially made it for
him, as it was not on the menu).
Although dinner at Cap Horn was expensive (520 DKK) and mediocre, our
next-door gelato palace was fantastic. The Rajissimo Gelateria (next to Cap
Horn) makes waffles, cones, and ice cream. We tried multiple flavors, but I
especially liked mango, pistachio, coconut, and chocolate. We enjoyed the
mango flavor so much that we ordered another one.
Monday, June 30, 2014
This time, we succeeded and followed Richard's tour throughout Copenhagen. We liked Richard's tours - he was articulate and explained things well. The 90-minute tour of Copenhagen costs 100 DKK or USD 20 per person.
Richard told us many exciting facts about the Danes and their lives in Denmark. He has been here for over 20 years, first as a professional musician and now as a tour guide. He dressed as Hans Christian Andersen in a colorful purple suit and top hat.
According to Richard, Danes value caring for the weak, the sick, and the helpless. There is a core value of helping people in need, and this is prevalent throughout Danish society. Richard described Denmark’s publicly funded healthcare, parental leave and support for people seeking work. Richard described Denmark as largely secular despite its Lutheran heritage. However, most Danes have their children baptized and confirmed anyway.
We saw very little panhandling and begging in Denmark (much more in Estonia and Sweden).
Denmark has one of the more honest political systems and is consistently rated among the most honest governments. A politician who cheats on taxes becomes unelectable. Parliamentary elections must be held at least every four years, and can be called earlier. Turnout at the most recent election before our visit, in 2011, was about 87.7%.
Richard emphasized Denmark’s high taxes. Still, most Danes agree to high taxes because of the social support these taxes provide, including health care, job retraining, care for the elderly, homeless, and mentally ill, and free college education. We saw very few homeless people during our stay in Copenhagen. Homeless people are provided shelter and a living stipend—Danes do not feel that in a rich country, anyone should be on the street.
Richard also described Denmark’s military-service lottery and the role of volunteers at the time. Women can volunteer within the armed forces for any position. Denmark aligns itself closely with the United States, and its military has served in Afghanistan, Iraq, and the U.S.
Richard also emphasized women’s participation in public life and support for families. Women won 39.1% of parliamentary seats in the 2011 election. Around the time of our visit, the leave system combined maternity, paternity and shared parental leave; it did not guarantee every mother a year at 90% of salary.
Cars are costly in Denmark. At the time, passenger cars faced a value-based registration tax with 105% and 180% brackets, rather than a flat 180% sales tax. Denmark has high gas prices (USD 9/gallon) and higher car parking fees. Residents are encouraged to ride bicycles (with special bike lanes in the city designated for their use) and public transportation (which is cheap and prevalent - buses run 24 hours per day). Most trains have accommodations for bikes and strollers, so it's easy to take a bike on the train and explore other parts of Denmark.
Denmark, which consists of the mainland and 400 other islands, is a seafaring nation. The largest shipping company, Maersk Line, is based in Denmark and employs 25,000 people.
At the time of our visit, a school reform was due to introduce English from first grade and German or French from fifth grade. English was easy to use in Copenhagen, and many signs throughout the city were in English. Copenhagen is home to a major Danish university with tens of thousands of students.
Denmark consistently ranks as one of the happiest countries. Richard pointed out that it is not so much that Danes are so glad, but they have lowered expectations and are always surprised when Denmark comes out ahead. Danes do not expect Denmark to be number one in anything. Their lowered expectations mean that they are rarely disappointed when things go poorly. They also believe that happiness does not come from more material wealth but from more friends and more interactions with others. Most Danes are members of their apartment or homeowners' association, church, or neighborhood. They grow to trust and depend on each other, so honesty is taken for granted and expected.
The biggest problems of concern to Danes right now are immigration (many incoming immigrants from Islamic countries do not integrate well into Danish society), taxes, alcohol abuse, and smoking. Richard also discussed unemployment support, job-seeking requirements and retraining.
After the tour ended, we stopped for lunch at an authentic Danish restaurant recommended by Richard: Cafe Halvvejen. The cafe is primarily underground, has limited space, and serves lunch. However, there was space on the street, and we ordered a few authentic Danish dishes, which were really exceptional.
Inna had a traditional smorgasbord on rye bread.
I had the mini platter, which included herring, chicken salad, homemade meatballs, and a hard-boiled egg. It was truly exceptional.
Alex had the traditional Danish meatballs, which looked and tasted delicious.
These dishes were all very well prepared and reasonably priced (compared to other tourist-oriented restaurants). We hope to eat there again one day.
After lunch, we stopped by the bakery Richard recommended - Lagkagehuset - where we picked a few delicious pastries. I had the Franske Horn. Alex tried the Traestamme, which both Inna and I liked, but Alex did not like it because it contained rum. Inna tried the Nødde-mazarin, which she also enjoyed. This was one of the best bakeries we have been to in Copenhagen, and we planned to stop there again. Since Alex did not like the taste of the rum in the Traestamme, we let him pick out another selection - Flodebolle caramel.
He really loved the ball of chocolate and caramel!
In our travels, we found that Lagkagehuset bakeries varied in quality across locations (the airport bakery was subpar).
After dessert, we quickly ran to Richard's subsequent tour of Rosenborg Palace, a summer residence of Danish Kings. We enjoyed touring the palace with Richard as he explained the intricacies of Danish Royalty and showed us the jewels in the Treasury, including crowns, swords, necklaces, and all manner of royal objects.
After the treasury tour, we went to the castle, where we explored the Royal rooms where Danish Kings and Queens ate, slept, and received visitors. There were memorable holes in the floor so that a musical orchestra could be well heard, and the king's pipes ran through the castle so he could communicate with servants in another part of the palace. The palace was luxurious but not as extravagant as Versailles.
After the tour, we explored the Rosenborg Castle gardens and found a children's playground. It was oriented more toward younger kids with sand to play in. Alex played there a bit, and then we took the metro to our hotel, where we rested.
As we did not see much of Copenhagen, we decided to rent bikes at our hotel and ride around the city. As most bike rental shops close by 5:30 p.m., we had to rent expensive bikes directly from the hotel for 150 DKK per day. Most rental shops do not stock smaller bicycles for kids, so you should call each shop now to check whether smaller-frame bicycles are available for rental (most are only suitable for adults).
We first rode north on the bikes to see the "Little Mermaid" statue up close. We saw a few other mermaid statues, bear statues, and other creatures.
As my camera's battery ran out, we decided to head back, swap batteries, and then see the exciting neighborhood of Christiania. It's an unusual place where people live an alternative lifestyle. It was a relatively run-down section of Copenhagen where drug plants grew in the open and poor, artistic types called home. Taking photos in most of Christiania is not allowed due to the illegal activities that generally take place there.
Riding bikes on Copenhagen streets was sometimes challenging, as there were multiple stoplights for cars, bikes, and pedestrians.
After we returned to our hotel, we returned the rented bikes and took the bus to Tivoli Gardens, where we wanted to get dinner and catch the last show. We had dinner at the Nimb Brasserie. Inna ordered the Baked North Sea cod entree, and I had the Guinea fowl (like a chicken). Both entrees were well prepared but not extraordinary. Just as we were about to leave, a heavy rain erupted from the sky, and we decided to stay for dessert.
Inna ordered the cake and two teas. The teas turned out to be very expensive - 45 DKK each! On a positive note, the rain stopped, and we used the time to take fantastic photos of Tivoli right after. However, due to the rain, we missed the one show we wanted to see - Illuminations. We hope to see it next time we return to Copenhagen.
After breakfast, we took bus 1A to Copenhagen's Central Train Station, then
the S-train to Hillerod, where we toured Frederiksborg Castle. Rick
Steves recommended taking a bus to the castle, and we did this (instead of
walking and arriving later).
The castle itself is large and surrounded by a large moat. We were some of the first people in the castle, and it was fairly quiet in the morning. When we first arrived, there were two ladies dressed in authentic period costumes. I took photos of Alex and Inna with them.
The castle itself is large and surrounded by a large moat. We were some of the first people in the castle, and it was fairly quiet in the morning. When we first arrived, there were two ladies dressed in authentic period costumes. I took photos of Alex and Inna with them.
The castle had a beautiful chapel inside. We could walk around it, but not
go inside. It was meant for the king of Denmark.
While exploring the castle, we appreciated the fine furnishings and beautiful artwork. We also liked the Tycho Brahe astrolabe machine, designed to forecast the location of all stars and constellations.
The castle is not as lavish as Versailles, but Inna still thought it was richly decorated.
After touring the castle, we walked behind it to admire the beautiful gardens. The gardens were magnificent, and visiting them all took us a long time.
We walked around the gardens. We enjoyed the beautiful manicured lawns, statues, and water fountains.
After spending a few hours in the castle, we stopped by the nearby T.I. (tourist info) office to find the best place for lunch in Hillerød. Inna found a local Indian restaurant, Saffro, and we ate lunch there.
Since the buffet was reasonably priced at 99 DKK per person (and looked good); we ordered two buffets for us and a Caesar salad for Alex. The buffet had three kinds of herring, Indian curry, and Danish salads. The chicken salad was incredibly delicious, and the Indian food was better than I had tried in San Jose.
After finishing lunch, we walked around Hillerød, surprised to see so many people out on a Tuesday afternoon. We walked to the train station and took the train to the next castle, Kronborg, located in Helsingør (a little north).
The train ride from Hillerød to Helsingør took over 45 minutes, and I fell asleep. From the Helsingør train station, we took a bus (just 1 stop) to Kronborg Castle.
The castle grounds were extensive, and cannons were mounted overlooking the strait (Sweden is across the channel). In old times, the Kronborg Castle demanded payment for any ships crossing the strait.
Alex decided to climb a cannon to pose for photos. The cannon looked like an accurate replica of the originals still mounted on the castle.
We did not enter the castle because we arrived late (around 5:00 p.m.), and it was too late for a tour. In addition, Rick Steves recommended skipping the tour inside, as he thought nothing was exciting inside.
After walking around Kronborg Castle and looking at the boats sailing the strait and the houses in Sweden (across the channel), we returned to our train stop for our final journey to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.
It took us another 21 minutes to get aboard another train to Humlebaek (where Louisiana is located).
While exploring the castle, we appreciated the fine furnishings and beautiful artwork. We also liked the Tycho Brahe astrolabe machine, designed to forecast the location of all stars and constellations.
The castle is not as lavish as Versailles, but Inna still thought it was richly decorated.
After touring the castle, we walked behind it to admire the beautiful gardens. The gardens were magnificent, and visiting them all took us a long time.
We walked around the gardens. We enjoyed the beautiful manicured lawns, statues, and water fountains.
After spending a few hours in the castle, we stopped by the nearby T.I. (tourist info) office to find the best place for lunch in Hillerød. Inna found a local Indian restaurant, Saffro, and we ate lunch there.
Since the buffet was reasonably priced at 99 DKK per person (and looked good); we ordered two buffets for us and a Caesar salad for Alex. The buffet had three kinds of herring, Indian curry, and Danish salads. The chicken salad was incredibly delicious, and the Indian food was better than I had tried in San Jose.
After finishing lunch, we walked around Hillerød, surprised to see so many people out on a Tuesday afternoon. We walked to the train station and took the train to the next castle, Kronborg, located in Helsingør (a little north).
The train ride from Hillerød to Helsingør took over 45 minutes, and I fell asleep. From the Helsingør train station, we took a bus (just 1 stop) to Kronborg Castle.
The castle grounds were extensive, and cannons were mounted overlooking the strait (Sweden is across the channel). In old times, the Kronborg Castle demanded payment for any ships crossing the strait.
Alex decided to climb a cannon to pose for photos. The cannon looked like an accurate replica of the originals still mounted on the castle.
We did not enter the castle because we arrived late (around 5:00 p.m.), and it was too late for a tour. In addition, Rick Steves recommended skipping the tour inside, as he thought nothing was exciting inside.
After walking around Kronborg Castle and looking at the boats sailing the strait and the houses in Sweden (across the channel), we returned to our train stop for our final journey to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.
It took us another 21 minutes to get aboard another train to Humlebaek (where Louisiana is located).
We had to walk another 10 minutes from the train station to the museum.
Although we saw bus stops, Google Maps did not indicate how to get to them
(so it's possible to get to the museum by bus).
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art houses modern sculptures and paintings.
We arrived there around 7:00 p.m. Since we were getting hungry, we decided
to eat dinner in the cafe overlooking the strait. The cafe served a buffet
that was delicious and reasonably priced (159 DKK per adult, 74 DKK for
kids). The roast beef and salads were delicious; everyone, including Alex,
got second helpings. At one point, a rainbow appeared, and we took photos of
it. We really enjoyed our dinner there - more so than in restaurants in
Copenhagen.
For a brief moment during dinner, a beautiful rainbow emerged. I ran to take some photos. Eventually, two separate rainbows appeared.
After dinner, we looked at all the beautiful sculptures in the outdoor garden. We were surprised by how extensive the grounds are. We had expected the museum to be much smaller than it was. Around the lake, there are sculptures and a slide for kids. The vegetation was as lush as one would find in a jungle. It was a beautiful place to relax and enjoy the views - especially when the weather was nice.
Inna even got to try out the children's slide!
After finishing touring the outdoor sculptures, we explored the indoor collection. I am not a big fan of modern art, but I found a few interesting pieces. The museum goes into lockdown at 9:30 p.m. on Tuesdays (half an hour before closing), so we could not see some of the outdoor statues.
We stayed until 10:00 p.m. - until the museum closed (it closes at 10:00 p.m. on Tuesdays). We walked back to the train station and took two trains back to Copenhagen (about an hour). It was a long, tiring day, but we covered a lot of sights.
When we came home around 11:15 p.m., the U.S. soccer team was still tied with Belgium 0 to 0 at the FIFA World Cup finals. We watched the game a bit and then went to bed, exhausted from the long day. When I woke up and checked the score, I was disappointed that the U.S. lost to Belgium 2 to 1.
For a brief moment during dinner, a beautiful rainbow emerged. I ran to take some photos. Eventually, two separate rainbows appeared.
After dinner, we looked at all the beautiful sculptures in the outdoor garden. We were surprised by how extensive the grounds are. We had expected the museum to be much smaller than it was. Around the lake, there are sculptures and a slide for kids. The vegetation was as lush as one would find in a jungle. It was a beautiful place to relax and enjoy the views - especially when the weather was nice.
Inna even got to try out the children's slide!
After finishing touring the outdoor sculptures, we explored the indoor collection. I am not a big fan of modern art, but I found a few interesting pieces. The museum goes into lockdown at 9:30 p.m. on Tuesdays (half an hour before closing), so we could not see some of the outdoor statues.
We stayed until 10:00 p.m. - until the museum closed (it closes at 10:00 p.m. on Tuesdays). We walked back to the train station and took two trains back to Copenhagen (about an hour). It was a long, tiring day, but we covered a lot of sights.
When we came home around 11:15 p.m., the U.S. soccer team was still tied with Belgium 0 to 0 at the FIFA World Cup finals. We watched the game a bit and then went to bed, exhausted from the long day. When I woke up and checked the score, I was disappointed that the U.S. lost to Belgium 2 to 1.






















































































































1 comment
Ah well, enjoyed the read and photos,